Wednesday, April 22

Veal Marengo with Green Almonds

Veal Marengo with Green Almonds

Green almond season has me thinking of ways to use this symbolic food, the first fresh green thing to appear in many orchards. Seeing veal in the local store gave me the idea to revisit an old chestnut, Veal  Marengo. It is a classic preparation for an elegant yet homey dish of veal stewed with tomatoes and mushrooms. Adding green almonds proved to be a lucky hunch. When cooked, the green almonds taste like cooked

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Thursday, February 13

Salmon Carpaccio

Are you looking for something fast and festive? Consider Salmon Carpaccio as a fresh, unfussy main course or light main meal. Think sashimi with a French twist. The saturated color of thin slices of raw salmon says “fancy” but it is forgiving to prepare.  Bread bakers take note. Because fish carpaccio needs a crusty baguette or thin slices of pain de mie, it is a great dish to add to your repertoire. Salmon carpaccio is made

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Sunday, November 11

Memories of Restaurant du Village at Gateway Community College

Restaurant du Village, Chester CT

Once upon a time there was a tiny piece of France in Chester, Connecticut called Restaurant du Village. On November 28, 2018 at Gateway Community College in New Haven we will turn the clock back and remember some of the dishes we served at Restaurant du Village in the 1980’s. The three-course meal will be prepared by students in GWCC’s Culinary Arts Program with a little help from me. The proceeds benefit the Gateway Foundation, which

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Tuesday, July 31

Emerite + Almonds: Summer Salad Combination

Emerite and Almonds

Harciots verts fines, the French call them, the thinnest, finest and earliest green beans of summer.  Today I picked the first green haricots from our Connecticut garden, a French variety called emerite.  Although green beans will dominate in a few weeks, right now we relish a plate of salad greens topped with emerite and almonds. The distinguishing characteristics of this pole bean variety are length and girth, or lack thereof.  These beans are straight, long

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Friday, February 09

Chocolate Rosemary Cream

Chocolate Rosemary Cream

Chocolate rosemary cream satisfies all my sweet cravings. It’s rich with dark cocoa flavors and unctuous like a barely melted chocolate bar. Let a spoonful rest on your tongue and the mild acidity and fragrant rosemary notes come through. With everyone thinking about chocolate for Valentine’s Day, I thought this might be the moment to make it again. Jump to Recipe This is neither my invention nor something new because the recipe is over 200

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Monday, October 05

Mouclade, Mussels Cooked with Cream and Curry

Mouclade, Mussels Cooked with Cream and Curry

This is one of the first recipes from our original Restaurant du Village repertoire that we most enjoy where there’s a nip in the air. Mouclade, Mussels Cooked with Cream and Curry means briny mussels, sweet curried cream and a few pieces of crusty bread. It makes the perfect meat or first course with a few friends. Don’t be tempted to try light cream or milk instead of heavy cream. The mixture will curdle. Instead

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Tuesday, February 10

Potage Ménagère – French Homestyle Vegetable Soup

Potage Ménagère – French Homestyle Vegetable Soup

Potage à la Ménagère is a simple puréed vegetable soup, not a recipe you’ll find in Escoffier. (I checked.) Rather it’s housewife soup that speaks of French frugality. Eating it transports me to a scene in a 1930’s black and white film. There, in a country kitchen at a wooden table set with enormous spoons, a family sits quietly eating soup with thick slices of crusty bread. Once upon a time, this type of soup starred

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"Let no man fancy he knows how to dine
Till he has learnt how taste and taste combine."

-Horace, Satires, 2.4

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